Earlston Gingham Girls: Past and Present

The present meets the past in this account of "The Earlston Gingham Girls".

In June 2018. Janet Macintyre and Gill Cooper from Earlston SWI (Scottish Women's Institute) joined   tens of thousands of women in processions in the four UK capitals, to celebrate women’s rights and commemorate the people who had fought for women to gain  the  vote.

              

Background to the Event

There had long been a campaign  for the right of women to participate in the political life of the country, but it met with little success. However  under the leadership of Emmeline Pankhurst,   a much more militant approach was introduced with the formation of  the The Women's Social and Political Union.  Its activities gained notoriety in the press, leading to the term "suffragette" being coined by "The Daily Mail" in 1906.  

Their  first mass rally in 1908 in Hyde Park, drew crowds of over 300,000, many bearing banners specifically  made for the event.  The campaigners were pioneers in using visual aids to publicise their cause  (what we now know as "branding") - carrying banners, proclaiming memorable slogans and adopting the colours of Green, White and Violet, reflecting their message of "Give Women Votes".

But it was the role of women in the First World War, undertaking men's work  that did as much as anything to show their ability and commitment.  So in November 1918 the Representation of the People Act  gave the vote to some women i.e. those over the age of 30,  who were householders, the wives of householders, occupiers of property with an annual rent of £5, and graduates of British universities.   It was to be a further ten years in 1928, before women gained the vote on the same basis as men. 

The 2018 Edinburgh Procession 

Here is Janet and Gill's account of their experience of the procession.

"We were urged to create banners, reflecting women in our community, and to wear the Suffragette colours.  Living in Earlston, we thought about the remarkable women of the village and immediately coming to mind were the Whale Sisters, the 19th century manufacturers of Earlston Gingham. We wanted to share their story in some kind of way on our banner. 

We bought  some green and violet gingham,  with a white cloth as the background. The term "Earlston's Gingham Girls"  seemed a natural title and  the shape of the thistle emerged in the design, reinforcing our Scottish identity

The Edinburgh march started from the Meadows, over George IV Bridge, down the Mound, along Princes Street, up North Bridge and down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Park. 

We were  arranged in long columns and each column was given a piece of loose woven cotton cloth in the suffragette colours.  Participants tied the material around their heads, shoulders  or waist and we became, a piece of street art - a flowing  river of colour.  

We had an amazing day - the atmosphere was friendly with a tangible  air of celebration.  The good weather was a bonus!  Songs were  sung, and stories swapped.  We  told as many people as we could about the significance of our banner and the achievements of the Whale sisters in a time when men dominated the business world.  We returned  to Earlston, happy but exhausted after carrying our banner for 3 miles around central Edinburgh.

Who were the Whale Sisters?
They were two enterprising women who became known  both nationally and internationally for their business success.

 

A carved inscription on the old mill building, 

with  the names C & M Whale still clearly visible.
Today the site of Austin Coaches. 

Contemporary press cuttings indicate how widespread was the reputation of Earlston Ginghams.

 

 An advertisement in London's "Morning Post":  23rd September 1844. 
With a reference to "the celebrated Marion Whale's Earlston ginghams."

Christian Whale died  in 1862 aged 77 and "The Southern Reporter"  printed a fulsome obituary, noting that "the firm employed little short of 100 weavers, who in turn required no inconsiderable number of female winders."

"The Berwickshire News" noted that she was a "woman of masculine understanding and highest business capacity......She will be long remembered in these parts as a woman of ability and enterprise and one who deserved well of her native place".    

Marion died two years later.   The mill was sold to the textile firm of Wilson & Sons, and the house property on the High Street  was sold to Mr Smail, agent of the Commercial Bank  for the sum of £700. 

The two Whale sisters were ahead of their time and made an enormous contribution to Earlston life.  They were beacons in  mid Victorian Britain when few women showed such enterprising spirit to head successful businesses.  

 But they did not have the vote and had no say in political life.

 Today a street name sign reminds us of the village's past. 

 

 

Two surviving examples of the woven Earlston Gingham 

 in the collection of Auld Earlston.  By chance in the suffragette colours.  

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Christmas Greetings from Earlston

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Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 

To All Our Blog Readers  

A charming Christmas card 

from  the collection of  local historian - the late John Weatherly 

 

Photographs of Earlston Christmas Lights

 Christmas Cards from the time of the First World War 

Nativity Scene in Earlston

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Earlston's Generous Community Spirit in World War Two

During World War Two, Earlston’s community spirit shone through, whether it was in supporting national causes such as  War Weapons Week and Wings for Victory week, or fund raising for the local War Comforts Fund. At the heart of this activity was the Earlston War Works Party. 

As in  other communities, there were women in Earlston who were experienced in charity work, organising events and raising money for worthwhile causes. On the outbreak of war in 1939, they were galvanized into action to form the Earlston War Works Party, working closely with the local branches of the Red Cross and Women’s Voluntary Service (WVS).

WHAT DID THEY DO?

Compiled and updated Address Books of names of Earlston lads serving, with details of their whereabouts, status, rank, next of kin, plus personal details e.g. non-smoker.

Organised the issue of ration books.

Organised a weekly house to house “penny” collection to provide comforts to serving forces.

Organised billets for evacuees and troops stationed here.   

Distributed comfort parcels to 400 Polish soldiers on their arrival in the village.                                       
                                            Polish soldiers in the Market Square
 
Did darning for troops. 

Distributed khaki wool supplied by the Scottish Woollen Comforts Council.

Sent Comfort Parcels thrice yearly to Earlston men and women serving in the forces.

Sent Comfort Parcels to Earlston Prisoners of War - to include a knitted blanket, a pullover, two pairs of socks, plus cigarettes and a friendly word from home.  

 

  Prisoners of War in  Stalag XVIIID, Germany,
with Earlston men on the back row - Jim Reid (far left) and Ed Reid  (far right)     

Sent knitted garments (socks, mittens, scarves, pullovers, balaclavas) to the Comforts Funds of the Army, RAF, Royal Navy, Merchant Seamen, and K.O.S.B.


The Red Cross Work Party made swabs, bandages, pyjamas, vests, shirts, tropical underwear, limb pads, kit bags, dressing gowns, surgeons’ overalls, and sleeping bags for bombed areas. 

Set up a clothing depot for emergency use.

Organised the collection of herbs and sphagnum moss used in the treatment of wounds.   

Organised the collection of brass and aluminium

Made available A Red Cross Library of 1000 books.

The WVS organised a canteen in the church hall for troops  which became a popular social venue. . 

Looking forward to happier times, a Welcome Home Fund was set for servicemen returning home as the war ended.
  
Gave £6 to each re-patriated Prisoner of War - equivalent to £213 in today’s money.  (National Archives Currency Converter

HOW WAS THE MONEY RAISED?

All kinds of events were held, with young and old contributing  with whist dances and whist drives, concerts, regular house to house collections, and  donations from shops,  businesses and organisations,  pipe band and dancing displays, baby shows, pin up boy and girl competitions, football and bowling tournaments, and a garden fete at Cowdenknowes. Some typical reports in the local newspapers were:  

 

Southern Reporter:  12th July 1945 

 Berwickshire News:  17th April 1945

Participants in the Pin Up Competition 
Margaret McAulay; Sybil Jackson; Bunty Thomson (Mason) and Dorothy Hartley (Hall)
During the war Bunty worked at Simpson and Fairbairn Mill
and Dorothy was in the Land Army in Earlston. 

Bunty being presented with her first prize by Mrs. Scott Aiton.

 Advert from Southern Reporter: 31 May 1945.

Southern Reporter:  27th September 1945.

WHO WERE THE ORGANISERS?

Names that appear regularly in the press reports and minute book:

Miss Henderson, Miss Hope, Miss Hogarth, Mrs Hood, Mrs Barlow, Miss Sharpe, Mrs Wylie, Mrs Young and Mrs Rodger.

HOW DO WE KNOW ALL THIS?

From regular reports in the local press and from the Minute Books of the Earlston War Work Party, which are now held in the archives at the Heritage Hub,  Hawick.

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In 1945 a joint meeting of the Earlston War Work Party,  Earlston branch of the Red Cross and WVS met to look back on their activities.

Since the start of the war,  £3723 was raised for the Comforts Fund, the Red Cross Fund and the Welcome Home Fund - equivalent to £132,356 in  today's money terms.

A wonderful example of community spirit and one which did much to raise morale on the home front, as people felt they were contributing to the war effort.  

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 VICTORY

 

Southern Reporter: 23rd August 1945

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Earlston Men Before the WW1 Military Tribunals

We tend to think that WW1 Military Tribunals dealt primarily with conscientious objectors,   but newspaper reports of the day  show that men sought exemption from service in the armed forces for a variety of reasons - amongst them men from Earlston.

Background:

In Britain, conscription in the First World War came into force in March 1916. It  specified that single men between the ages of 18 and 41 were liable to be called-up for military service,  unless they were widowed with children or ministers of religion. The age was quickly extended to married men in May 1916, and was raised  further to 50 in April 1918.  

Ireland was specifically  exempt from conscription in the light of the unrest there, culminating in the Easter Uprising.

The Role of Military Tribunals  
These  were set up to hear applications for exemption from conscription. Although the tribunals were best known for their attitude to conscience objectors, most of their work dealt with domestic and business issues.  Men could apply on the basis of doing work of national importance, such as in war industries;  for domestic or business hardship, or for medical unfitness.

Local newspapers reported regularly on tribunals  across  the Scottish Borders, and below are some typical instances from 1916  involving men from Earlston.   Often a temporary reprieve was given, but  this was generally  for a few weeks only.

• A butcher from Redpath had been trying to sell his business as a growing concern and asked for deferment to allow him to collect outstanding debts.  He was granted a postponement of six weeks, with a stipulation this would not be extended and he must be prepared to serve.
• Earlston hairdresser & tobacconist, John Rutherford claimed financial hardship, in consideration that he had built up a small business and needed to wind up matters. He was given a temporary reprieve from service.

• Five claims were made for farm workers at Fans Farm.   Given exemptions were George Simpson, who had three brothers serving, and ploughman/steward Peter Hume;  two were refused -  Ralph Hume and David Adam Borthwick; whilst Joseph Borthwich was given temporary exemption.

• Master baker of Earlston,  Walter Utterson was given an “absolute exemption." 

• A  china merchant in Earlston appeared before the tribunal a second time and stated that he supported  his elderly grandparents in their late 70’s,  and he still needed to make arrangements for his business to be carried on.  The tribunal opposed the appeal. 

• William Holland, aged 34 of Earlston,  claimed he was unable to complete contracts for his work as a slater and chimney sweep, doing all the work around Earlston.  He had six children to support and a lot of farm steadings to repair. His claim was refused.

• George Blair, partner with a plumbing firm in Earlston,  claimed that to lose one of his men, meant practically abolishing his business. Claim refused.

• Henry Rutherford of Rutherford's, Agricultural Engineers in Earlston,  claimed that losing men to the armed services would jeopardise the needs of the farms in the area.  Exemption granted on the basis of his work being of national importance.

• John Mather, hardware merchant of Earlston,  was granted exemption as unlikely to be medically fit for service. 

• The President of the Earlston Co-operative Society petitioned on behalf three workers:   John Brash, manager was granted a temporary exemption until the end of stock-taking  and that a man was found to take on his duties;  baker John Burrell,  was given an “absolute exemption", with van man Walter Brotherston’s claim  refused.

Records Available

The records of the Military Tribunals were deliberately destroyed after the war, apart from two sets of records   - those for Middlesex, England, held at the National Archives at Kew in London; and those for The Lothians & Peebles in Scotland, held at the National Records of Scotland in Edinburgh. 

So local  newspapers remain  the key source of information, available online - on FindmyPast and on the  British Newspaper Archive. 
 
[Silhouette image courtesy of  Pixabay]

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Facts and Figures:

The population of Earlston  in 1911 was  1749.  Ten years later according to the 1921 census it was 1641. 49 Earlston men died in the First World War and  are named on the village war memorial, a number from the same family.  

Earlston War Memorial - November 2017